Journal Issue No. 6 - February 2006


Historic Enterprises Announces Sponsorship

In the Spring of 2006, Historic Enterprises and Black Swan Designs entered into a cooperative partnership with UK jouster and historical horseman Dominic Sewell. Black Swan Designs owner Gwen Nowrick explains how the idea came about. "We've been friends with Dominic for for a number of years and knew him to be an amazing guy with a fantastic attitude. We were very impressed by his overwhelming desire to present a historically accurate impression and drive to be the best at what he does. Dom began as an enthusiastic client of HE/BSD, and the longer he wore our kit he quite unintentionally became one of our most vocal advocates. Teaming up with him in a sponsorship simply formalizes an informal relationship that already exists."

Dominic prepares to enter the Royal Armouries Tiltyard as the Captain of the Destrier team. (Photo: Denby Photography, All rights reserved)

"I was impressed by Jeff and Gwen's range of knowledge and attention to detail from the first time I met them at the Royal Armouries in Leeds some years ago" explains Dominic "At that time I only knew them as reenactors interested in jousting. A friendship quickly grew out of our passion for both the sport and a high quality presentation. From the moment I wore my first pair of Gwen's hose and saw how well they fit and functioned, I knew they were on to something and wanted to help them reach more reenactors."

Getting the word out
Expanding visibility is a benefit of this sposorship. "We attend only a few reenactor's markets in the UK, which limits our exposure to the English market" Gwen continues "Dominic wears our clothing and kit at events we would never get to, and the response has been phenomenal! Seeing our kit put to use by someone who is so well known and well respected gives us a stamp of approval that is invaluable. Reenactors can see firsthand just how fantastically the clothing and kit fits and functions."

Dominic continues "This sponsorship is self serving in that it furthers my efforts to present a very high quality impression. A few years ago I was unlucky enough to have a vehicle with all of my kit in it stolen, and I lost everything. Until recently, I'd only just managed to replace some of this kit at huge cost. However, since my partnership with HE I'm now able to concentrate on horses and other equipment while HE and BSD supply me with clothing and kit I could only dream of owning."

An invaluable resource
Gwen explains an added bonus to the partnership: "Since I work almost entirely from images rather than existing garments, I have few if any construction references when I'm patterning clothing. Having someone out there actually wearing the clothing in a near-historic situation gives me invaluable input into tailoring and construction details I couldn't get any other way. Dominic is extremely demanding about fit and function, and to some extent is pretty hard on his kit because he actually uses it riding, doing skill at arms, hawking, jousting, etc. He gives me very clear feedback about what he likes and doesn't like!"

Dominic portrays a gentleman of 15th C. hunting with a falcon during the "Master of Game" show for English Heritage(Photo: Nick and Anne Unwin, Spiderwood Photography, 2006, All Rights Reserved)

Dominic laughs wryly and continues- "I'm very interested in modern fashion, and that translates to an avid interest in medieval fashion- how clothes fit, what they say about the wearer, why colours work or don't work, that sort of thing. All of that is reflected in what kit that I've chosen to wear. I guess you could say I'm a bit of a peacock; I always have to have the tightest hose, the shortest doublets, the pointiest shoes. This is what I see in period texts and I am absolutely passionate about looking like the period images I study. This high quality is vital if I am to give a convincing impression of a mounted man at arms. I consider myself extremely fortunate to have the support of Historic Enterprises to further my goals in creating that flawless historical impression".

"Dominic is a tailor's dream" Gwen interjects, "Not only is he physically built like the people we see in the period art, when he puts his kit on he carries himself completely differently than he does everyday. While in kit he just assumes an aura of class and grace that makes him look just like he stepped out of a manuscript. I have to admit it really is thrilling to see him in our kit!"

In the public eye
This sponsorship may be the first of it's kind, and all involved are adamant about avoiding the element of crass commercialism seen in other sports sponsorships. Gwen offers an emphatic statement, "Dominic will wear our kit, and if you look closely, you may find my Black Swan logo on the corner of a saddle pad, but we have no intention of turning this into a sideshow. We won't be emblazoning our logo all over his caparison, turning Hawthorn into a four-legged NASCAR billboard. We chose Dominic specifically because he's a class act, and we intend to conduct this relationship with that idea foremost." Dominic adds his own thoughts "I'm proud to be part of the Historic Enterprises team because they've proven that their products can provide reenactors, living historians and interpreters the kinds of well researched, high quality, well made and well fitted kit we all need. Like many people in my position, I know what I want to look like but I don't have the ability to make my kit to the high standard I want. Historic Enterprises can do just that, and I'm proud to tell others about this fantastic resource."

You can see photos of Dominic in action and follow him this year on his blog at http://jousterdom.blogspot.com/


A Knight's Tale

Historic Enterprises/Black Swan Designs unveils a new direction for 2006 by announcing a sponsoring partnership with one of the UK's premier jousters and historical equestrians, Dominic Sewell. In this interview, Dominic talks about reenactment, interpretation and why bringing history to life is such a passionate pursuit.

A moment of reflection and preparation for jousting (Photo: Denby Photography, 2004, All Rights reserved)

How did you get started?
My first real large scale reenactment event was the Battle of Tewkesbury in 1993. I soon found out the greathelm and leather trousers I arrived in were woefully inadequate for the scene I was about to throw myself into! I was struck that day by what other people thought a medieval battle looked like. There were lots of liveried companies who wearing very little armour and using very basic weapons. This was not the field full of fully armoured knights and caparisoned horses I had expected! I soon discovered that even though the kit was lacking, there was an all-pervasive spirit of camaraderie among the ranks. I was quite taken by their proud and sometimes reckless dedication to their flag and each other. Being alone and poorly dressed made me long to be part of one of those gangs. It was pretty amazing to see a company drilling and working together in teams- ten or twelve people could defeat what seemed to be dozens and dozens of flaming psychopaths flailing away with swords. I was fortunate to meet the lads from a local retinue, the Retinue of Sir John Astley, who were from the Nottingham/Derbyshire/East Midlands area. Back in those days it was a rough old game, and learning to use a bill and sword resulted in a spectacular assortment of cuts and bruises! I threw myself into it and it wasn't very long before I was made to feel like a member of the group. From it I forged some of the longest and deepest friendships of my life. In retrospect, little did I realize at that time how much the name of John Astly would be reflected in my career as a reenactor.

What was the Astly connection?
John Astley was one of the most noted jousters of his day. He was knighted by Henry VI at Smithfield when he killed a french knight in a jousting pass. Like John Astley, I would like to be known for my jousting ability.

How do you view what you do- is it living history, theatre, or what?
I'd say it's a little bit of everything, what's now being called "Historical Interpretation". All the elements of interpretation need to be used judiciously, as it's too easy to get bogged down in fact and make something that is intrinsically interesting boring. My goal is to capture people's imagination so they can begin their own journey into historical fact rather than fantasy. This is especially true with children because they have such vivid imaginations. I think the key is to excite an interest in one's own history, which then develops in to an awareness of sociology.

Sociology?
I say sociology because it is the study of human social behavior, especially the study of the origins, organization, institutions, and development of human society. History isn't just about facts and figures, it's about people, and the society they lived in. People have changed very little, and the same emotions we feel today were experienced by people in history- they laughed, cried, loved and feared; they worried about their family and future, same as today. Society's rules influence the way people act, and in turn influence how and why things happen, creating what we now see as "history". It brings history alive when we use historical milestones as a backdrop for our ancestor's humanity. Interpreters provide context with historical milestones first, then we personalize it by becoming historical people and showing how "we" deal with those extraordinary event.

What sort of historical scenario or person do you portray in these pieces?
That varies according to the particular customer's wants. I can be a medieval knight in a tournament or I could be a common man in the Norman period. They're all fascinating because they are all real people.

The public, especially children, see you as "A Knight". What does "being a knight" mean to you?
To me being a knight is a study in responsibility- you are responsible to the crew who dress you, feed you, run for you, bring you water, take care of your horse and a million other aspects of supporting you as the main act. A knight is responsible to his horse- to be a considerate rider, care for him, watch out for him, be the leader of the herd. A knight is responsible to his audience- to perform for them, to give them considered information, to educate, amuse and inspire them. A knight has to be a courageous leader, and to inspire confidence in his followers; the life or death aspect may be gone, but the relationship remains.

I think most people think of a knight as a solo act- the guy on the horse in armour and all that. I don't think people realize nothing could be further from the truth! A knight leads, but he needs the support of his followers to be where he is- it's a completely supportive relationship, and one can't exist without the other. So being a knight is being in command, and being responsible for those under your command.

Why are you a historical horseman, and not just a footsoldier where you started?
As enthralled as I was at being part of the Astley Retinue, I knew I didn't want to be a footsoldier forever, I knew I wanted to be a "Knight"-- fully armed and mounted. To me, the armoured, mounted man was the perfect embodiment of the middle ages, and consciously or not, to be a knight was my ultimate goal.

One of the most vivid experiences of my childhood was seeing a reenactment at Barnard Castle when I was 8. As impressed as I was by the battle, nothing about the day stands out as clearly in my mind as the group of costumed riders at the event. Their image stayed with me and came back in full force 20 years later when I saw a friend charge onto a reenactment battlefield, horseback and clad in armour. I had no idea he could ride but instantly decided if he could ride then so could I, and the next week I joined the group which was ultimately to become Destrier and began taking riding lessons. From that point on, my involvement with historical recreation, reenactment, interpretation, whatever you want to call it, became focused on the horse's role in history, and the rider's relationship with the horse.

What are your feelings and thoughts about jousting- what drew you to it, is it important to you, is it just a sport?
It started out as just something to do- jousting is what knights do, right? So when we had armour and horses, we had to do jousting. As we began researching it and then doing it, we realized it's not just a sport, jousting was very nearly a way of life for a certain group of people. Codes of conduct sprung up around those who jousted, it influenced art, literature, social commentary, religious commentary, fashion-everything. To do it justice and to present it to the public in a historically faithful way, we had to understand not only the physical act of jousting, we had to understand the heart and soul of it.

For me, jousting is not just jumping on a horse and riding off with a lance in my hand to be the hero. I have to prepare both myself and my horse mentally and physically for what we're about to do. Like any athletic team, we have to train regularly to keep on top of our game. I have to maintain my armour, tack and other kit. Jousting is a mirror on myself- I have to be balanced, focused and ready to undertake what amounts to single combat in a sport that could kill me if I'm not. Jousting is something I think about every day in one way or another, because like any martial art, it requires a mental discipline that can be applied to everyday life.

Is there anything you're passionate about? If so, what is it?
I think it would have to be the horses. They are such an integral part of "being a knight", that they really come before anything. I am passionate about getting a horse started properly and teaching him all about jousting and the other activities in such a way that he can be realize his potential without any stress. A horse that is trained properly from the start, exposed to all of this in such a way that he understands and is confident in the job he is to do, becomes a real partner and in many ways makes the whole thing possible.

I've studied and learned a tremendous amount from the natural horsemanship people in the US, people like Monty Roberts and John Lyons. Although their techniques work brilliantly, much of their philosophy is considered rubbish in the mainstream UK horse world, which is pretty much mired in the traditions of the BHS (British Horse Society) school. In some ways I'm considered a quack because I use and believe in these "natural horsemanship" techniques, but I do the best I can, always trying to do right by the horses.

There is no jousting, hunting, or cavalry activities without the horses, so I guess I'm most passionate about that aspect of what I do.

Has participation in Living History changed you in any way? If so, how?
Yes, absolutely. It's made me more of a team player, made me more outgoing. It made me develop social skills I thought I'd never have or be brave enough to use.

Does your hobby overlap your "real" life in any way?
Completely! I've gone from working as a salesman to running my own livery yard. and training horses to perform in historical shows. It has completely changed the course of my life.

A knight has to have a horse, so tell us about yours
I'll be using two horses this year. My primary horse is Hawthorne; he is my warhorse, my destrier. He is a hugely experienced 15 years old Friesian/cob cross stallion who over the last two years has proved to be a willing partner and formidable opponent in the list. Hawthorne is regarded as one of the best jousting horses in England, and I am fortunate to have him.

As a Norman horseman, Dominic does skill at arms with a spear (Photo: Nick and Anne Unwin, Spiderwood Photography, 2006, All Rights Reserved)

My second horse is Cobrador, a 7 year old Pure Registered Espanola (Andalusian) who I will be using as a knight's palfrey for hunting games and skill at arms. In addition, I will be introducing my first reserve , Oliver (AKA Ambrosius), who is a jolly little 14.3 Gypsy Vanner/cob cross. Oliver has proven to be the most willing horse I've ever trained, and looks to be an up and coming star in the field of historical equestrian activities.

A Knight's Tale (continued)

What's your schedule like for 2006?
Very busy indeed! I have been cordially invited to participate in "The Knight's Tournament" which is being run by English Heritage. There I shall be jousting against three opponents in English Heritage's premier event. The tour consists of 4 retinues of four members, with each retinue competing as a team in a tournament. Each retinue is comprised of a knight, a squire, a man at arms, a valet and most importantly, a horse. The squire competes in a longbow shoot, the man at arms in foot combat, the knight in skill at arms and the joust. There will be eight events throughout the summer culminating in a grand final at English Heritage's Festival of History event the second week of August in Kelmarsh Hall.

In addition, I will be jousting in 2 competitions at the Royal Armouries in Leeds with the cream of the world's jousters. In my view this is the world championship, the world's premier jousting event. I'm proud to be a part of it, where I get to joust against my friends, who are my peers and my heroes.

In October I will command a wing of the Norman cavalry as English Heritage repeats their 2000 reenactment of the Battle of Hastings. Over 100 horses will be on the battlefield at the same time with thousands of footsoldiers from all over the world. This is an amazing sight only a few thousand people will ever see in their lifetime. Truly awe inspiring.


The hunter's keen gaze: Dominic portrays a Norman lord hunting with a hawk for English heritage. (Photo: Nick and Anne Unwin, Spiderwood Photography, 2006, All Rights Reserved)

In addition to my commitment to English Heritage, I am the Chairman of Destrier, known as the premier historical equestrian group in the UK. I will be participating in jousts and skill at arms shows throughout the UK thru the summer with the group.


The History Valentine's Day

Roman Roots
The history of Valentine's Day is obscure, and further clouded by various fanciful legends. The holiday's roots are in the ancient Roman festival of Lupercalia, a ancient pagan fertility celebration honoring Juno, queen of the Roman gods and goddesses and goddess of women and marriage, which was held on February 14. During festival time, women would write love letters, also known as billets, and leave them in a large urn. The men of Rome would then draw a note from the urn and ardently pursue the woman who wrote the message they had chosen. (Apparently, the custom of lottery drawings to select valentines continued into the 18th century, coming to an end when people decided they'd rather choose -- sight seen! -- their valentines.) Pope Gelasius I recast this pagan festival as a Christian feast day circa 496, declaring February 14 to be St. Valentine's Day.

A wedding; from Spiegel des menschlichen Lebens, Augsburg, about 1475-76 (clipart courtesy of www.godecookery.com)

A Trio of Valentines
Which St. Valentine this early pope intended to honor remains a mystery: according to the Catholic Encyclopedia, there were at least three early Christian saints by that name. One was a priest in Rome, another a bishop in Terni, and of a third St. Valentine almost nothing is known except that he met his end in Africa. Rather astonishingly, all three Valentines were said to have been martyred on Feb. 14.

Most scholars believe that the St. Valentine of the holiday was a priest who attracted the disfavor of Roman emperor Claudius II . According to one legend, Claudius II had prohibited marriage for young men, claiming that bachelors made better soldiers. Valentine continued to secretly perform marriage ceremonies but was eventually apprehended by the Romans and put to death. Another legend has it that Valentine, imprisoned by Claudius, fell in love with the daughter of his jailer. Before he was executed , he allegedly sent her a letter signed "from your Valentine", a phrase which is still used prominently on today's cards.

A couple hunting with hawks- from the Manessa Codex, c. 1305-1340 (Cod. Pal. Germ. 848, Große Heidelberger Liederhandschrift)

Chaucer's Love Birds
It was not until the 14th century that St. Valentine's Day became definitively associated with love. According to UCLA medieval scholar Henry Ansgar Kelly, author of Chaucer and the Cult of Saint Valentine, it was Chaucer who first linked St. Valentine's Day with romance.

Medieval Europeans believed that birds began to mate on Feb. 14. In 1381, Chaucer composed a poem in honor of the engagement between England's Richard II and Anne of Bohemia. As was the poetic tradition, Chaucer associated the occasion with a feast day. In "The Parliament of Fowls," the royal engagement, the mating season of birds, and St. Valentine's Day are linked:

For this was on St. Valentine's Day,
When every fowl cometh there to choose his mate.....

Holiday traditions
A variety of interesting Valentine's Day traditions developed over time. For example, in medieval England, children used to dress up as adults on Valentines Day. Similar to today's tradition of Christmas Caroling, they went from home to home singing

Good morning to you, valentine;
Curl your locks as I do mine---
Two before and three behind.
Good morning to you, valentine.

In Wales, wooden love spoons, carved with key, keyhole and heart designs, were given as gifts.

The gift of flowers on Valentine's Day probably dates to the early 1700s when Charles II of Sweden brought the Persian poetical art called "the Language of Flowers" to Europe. The rose, representing love, is probably the only flower with a meaning that is universally understood. The red rose remains the most popular flower bought by men for their sweethearts.

Verbal and singing valentines began to be replaced by written missives in Europe in the 15th century. The first written valentine is usually attributed to the imprisoned Charles, Duke of Orleans, in 1415. He reportedly passed the time by writing romantic verses for his wife. By the 16th century, written valentines were commonplace.

Valentine letter from Margery Brews to her fiancé John Paston, dated 1477. (The Paston Letters, British Library)

X - the kiss
This tradition of an "X" sign representing a kiss started with the Medieval practice of allowing those who could not write to sign documents with an "X". This was done before witnesses, and the signer placed a kiss upon the "X" to show sincerity. This is how the kiss came to be synonymous with the letter "X", and how the "X" came to be commonly used at the end of letters as kiss symbols. (Some believed "X" was chosen as a variation on the cross symbol, while others believe it might have been a pledge in the name of Christ, since the "X" or Chi symbol, is the second letter of the Greek alphabet and has been used in church history to represent Christ.)

Although Pope Paul VI dropped St. Valentine's Day from the church calendar 1969, the secular holiday is so entrenched that Valentine's Day is here to stay!


La Cuisine Médiévale

Meat pies of every variety were a staple of medieval Europe in the Middle Ages. They, along with pastries, bread, and ale were included in the supplies which were readily available for purchase from specialty suppliers. In Chaucer’s Reeve’s Tale, when unexpected company arrives at the mill, the miller sends his daughter out shopping:

This miller inot toun his doghter sende
For ale and breed...

Almost all houses had a fire and spit with which to roast meats, but most had no oven in which to bake. The baker therefore not only baked bread, but also cooked pies. The accounts of two chantry priests at Bridport, Dorset in January 1455 list food purchased for a dinner party, including "a payment of 5 pence to William the Baker for flour, his labor, and the Œpies made'". The contents of ready made pies was sometimes suspect. The cooks of many large households sold their kitchen waste to bakers, who turned it into pies. Apparently this practice became so widespread that in 1379 an ordinance was passed: "Because that the Pastelers [pastry cooks] of the City of London have heretofore baked in pasties rabbits, geese, and garbage, not befitting, and sometimes stinking...it is ordered that...no one of the said trade shall buy...at the hostels of the great lords, of the cooks of such lords, and garbage from capons, hens or geese, to bake in a pasty, and sell." "Garbage" in this context refers to animal entrails, which it seems was not the meat of choice for the making of pies. The following recipes are made with more mainstream (and appealing!) ingredients.

MYLOT OF PORK

"Hewe Pork al to Pecys and medle it w ayren @ chese igted, do thto fort fafron @ pyuner with falt, make a cruft i a trap, bake it wel thinne, and sue it forth." - Forme of Cury, xx. VII.XV, pg.70

l lb. country sausage
1/2 lb. grated cheddar cheese
1/4 c. milk
2 eggs
1/2 t. cinnamon
1/2 t. ginger
1/4 t. mace
Pastry crust or 24-30 canned breakfast biscuits

Mix together all ingredients. *Roll pastry crust or biscuit out on a very well floured surface to about 3"-4" in diameter. Use an ice-cream scoop to portion and make filling pasties easier. Place 1 scoop on the flattened pastry or biscuit. Use a pastry brush to wet edges dough with water. Roll another bit of pastry or biscuit, and position over the filling. Seal edges well by poking almost all the way through the edge surrounding the filling. Place pies on a cookie sheet. Bake at 350* for 20-25 min. until biscuits are nicely browned.

CHICKEN PASTIES LOMBARD

Chicken may be set in a pastry on their backs with the breast upward and large slices of bacon on the breast, and then covered. Item: In the Lombard manner, when the chickens are plucked and prepared, take beaten eggs, both the yolks and the whites, with verjuice and spice powder, and dip your chickens in this; and set them in the pasty with strips of bacon, as above." -Le Menagier de Paris

Boneless, skinless chicken breasts and/or thighs
1 egg
1T apple cider vinegar
1 t. ginger
1 t. cinnamon
1/4 t. cloves
1/4 t. cardamon
Bacon, cut in half
Pie crust or canned biscuits

Cut the chicken meat into 1" cubes and pound to 1/2 " thickness. Beat egg together with vinegar and spices. Dip the chicken chunks into the egg mixture and wrap with a half slice of bacon. Follow filling and baking directions from * above.


Armyng Poyntes

Some time ago my curiosity was piqued by a discussion of coloured points on the Firestryker forum. The final agreement in that discussion was that few examples of coloured points existed in the visual record, and that the written references were ambiguous at best. A discussion of coloured points with a museum curator friend resulted in him sending me a very clear image from The Trinity Altarpiece (Hugo van der Goes, 1478), where coloured points are clearly seen on St. George's couter.

Detail from The Trinity Altarpiece, showing coloured arming points in use on St. George's couter. Photo courtesy of Dr.Tobias Capwell, 2005

What's exciting about the painting is that not only are the points three coloured, the lace itself is clearly made up of a rather ordinary three-plait braid, rather than a fingerwoven braid. The simplicity of it intrigued me, so I had to have a go at it.

I refered to the Hastings manuscript when choosing the point material and finishing details:

the armynge poyntis muste be made of fyne twyne suche as men make stryngis for crossbowes and they muste be trussid small and poyntid as poyntis. Also they muste be wexid with cordeweneris coode. And than they woll neythirrecche nor breke.

When consulted, several bowyers said the best crossbow strings were made with hemp cord, so I used 6 strands of hemp cord (2 each of 3 colours) for the braid itself, which was a made in a simple 3-plait braid. The manuscript says they must be "poyntid as poyntis" which I took to mean they should have metal chapes attached to the ends. This practice is well documented in written records of the period, as well as the chapes being a common archaeological find. Metal chapes are also seen in the Trinity Altarpiece, so I affixed our Lace Chapes to the ends with Gorilla Glue. Note- Authenticity mavins could substitute hide glue for the Gorilla Glue, or drill and rivet or drill and stitch the chapes on. Since the glue doesn't show, I don't much care that it's modern. I actually made two sets, one for my friend Dominic and one for Jeff. Jeff's (pictured) are red, blue and gold; Dominic's are red, gold and black. Per the manuscript direction, both sets have been saturated in beeswax to improve wear and grip on the armour.

I found that a small project like this is fast and easy to do, and doesn't require any fancy tools or setup. It's clean, quiet, and very portable. It's the sort of thing one could easily work on at an event while chatting with friends. It's inexpensive, too- this dozen 20" laces cost about $20 in materials and took about 3 hours start to finish. It's the sort of finishing touch that can really add flair to your kit and bring it to the next level, so the next time you're looking for a quick, clean project, consider making a set of points!

A set of arming points made of coloured hemp string. Each lace is braided in a 3 -strand plait, finished with metal chapes and waxed with beeswax. Photo courtesy of Jeffrey Hedgecock, 2005

All contents ©2006 by Gwen Nowrick & Historic Enterprises, all rights reserved.

Page created by Jenn Reed.